Sea and Stone: A Croatian Island Gardening Retreat
If you’re lucky enough to discover an ancient island oasis filled with lush greenery, but in need of some modern updates, the dilemma is how to enhance the property without losing its original allure.
Back in 2004, painter and interior designer Lucien Rees Roberts and architect Steven Harris acquired a compound on a small Croatian island near Dubrovnik. Consisting of four buildings from the 15th century—a merchant’s home, nunnery, barn, and chapel—the property sat atop a hill with stunning views of the Adriatic Sea and surrounding mountains.
Surrounded by a soothing palette of rosemary, lavender, and santolina, the outdoor dining area is a favorite spot for the couple.
Despite the solid construction with thick limestone walls, the buildings had shortcomings, like limited natural light and removed plumbing. The previous modifications included wood paneling and concrete stairs, requiring significant renovations. The interior was stripped down to beams and joists, new windows were added, and the outdoor kitchen was integrated into the main house to improve the space.
Preserving History
Rees Roberts ensured that new openings matched the old ones by mimicking designs from buildings on the same island. He opted to expose interior limestone surfaces and used sandblasted Tuscan terra cotta tiles for the roof to give them an aged appearance.
Understated Elegance
To honor the original materials and cater to the owners’ desire for a peaceful retreat, Rees Roberts kept the furnishings simple, including 1970s-era Lucite candleholders and midcentury armchairs by Jorge Zalszupin.
Adapting Structures
The chapel remains untouched, but the nunnery now serves as a guesthouse, and the barn was transformed into Rees Roberts’ painting studio. The barn features sliding glass panels that remain open to provide stunning views of the sea and connect the indoor space with the outdoor terraces.
Creating Outdoor Spaces
Rees Roberts worked with landscape architect David Kelly to revamp the wild grounds surrounding the buildings. The property now boasts multiple terraces, courtyards, and gardens ideal for socializing, relaxation, and al fresco dining.
Using The Environment
Entering the house through the outdoor living spaces creates an immediate feeling of relaxation and enjoyment due to the absence of a front door. The steep topography surrounding the house, according to David Kelly, gives a sensation of floating over the water, enhancing the overall experience. The garden design process began with existing spaces that needed editing to reveal their potential. The choice of a plant palette featuring silvery and pale green hues was intentional to harmonize with the limestone reflections and the water’s clarity.
The movement of plants like lavender, rosemary, and santolina in the gentle breeze and sunlight creates a dreamlike atmosphere with undulating sweeps. A courtyard with eight orange trees arranged formally, centered around a reflecting pool, offers a secluded area for contemplation and serves as a gathering place before heading to the sea for a swim. Outdoor living and dining areas were strategically placed on a large cement terrace, covered with crushed local limestone to blend with the surroundings.
To strengthen the connection with the property’s environment, Kelly integrated slender cypresses into the landscape, reminiscent of the surrounding groves of similar trees on the hillside.
Challenges of Gardening Today in a Remote Locale
Kelly and Rees Roberts, experienced in working globally, faced unexpected obstacles when working on a project in a secluded island with only 140 inhabitants during peak season. The lack of cars on the island meant materials had to be transported by the thrice-daily ferry from Dubrovnik, then hand-carried up 156 steps to the house. At one point, a donkey was used to help but became the island’s mascot after carrying just one bag of cement.
Planting Amid Unexpected Circumstances
Despite encountering challenges such as workers being gone for a holiday and having to do much of the planting themselves during Ramadan, Kelly and Rees Roberts persevered. They learned about the rocky conditions and adapted to the unfamiliar situation by involving villagers as helpers.
Surprises and Adjustments in Gardening Today
Upon their return in spring, the team was surprised to find an abundance of red amaryllis flowers planted by the previous owner, deviating from their intended silver garden concept. Undeterred, Kelly and his team created striking flower arrangements with the amaryllis before removing the bulbs. This experience confirmed their decision to avoid strong colors that could distract from the house’s views.
Growing Conditions
THE CLIMATE: Following the end of the war in Croatia in 1995, the country quickly gained popularity as the “New Riviera” with its stunning coastline, sunny weather, and picturesque landscapes. Despite its beauty, the coastal region faces dry heat during the summer in hardiness zone 9, requiring careful planning for gardening. Establishing gardens in Mediterranean climates can be a slow process, necessitating water-wise plant choices and patience.
THE PLANTS: Steven Harris and Lucien Rees Roberts chose plants for their Croatian garden based on their ability to withstand drought and wind. The resilient Cistus x purpureus (orchid rockrose) thrives in sandy, rocky soils and can tolerate salt spray and strong winds.
Rosemary and Ceanothus arboreus (feltleaf ceanothus or tree lilac) add fragrance and color to the garden with their blooms and foliage. Additionally, Santolina chamaecyparissus and various lavender varieties contribute to both the aromatic presence and visual appeal of the garden.
